Basement Watchdog BW4000 Sump Pump Reviews https://t.co/lGxmHSfHlv— Sump Pump Advisor (@bestsumppump) September 30, 2016
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September 30, 2016 at 11:21PM
Basement Watchdog BW4000 Sump Pump Reviews https://t.co/lGxmHSfHlv— Sump Pump Advisor (@bestsumppump) September 30, 2016
Combinations of primary and backup sump pumps are not new per se, given that reputed manufacturers like Wayne have come up with units like Wayne 1/2 HP Battery Backup Sump Pump System. However, Basement Watchdog is a comparatively new name, and one can have legitimate fears that in trying to create not only a rare pump design but also one with novel features such as backup pump diagnostics, the company has overlooked certain vital pump specifications. To lay such fears to rest, we need to undertake a detailed analysis of the Basement Watchdog BW4000 to understand its utility better.
Product Dimensions: 8.8 x 11 x 18 inches.
Product Weight: 26 pounds
Type: Combination Primary and Back-Up Pump
NPT Motor: 1/3HP for primary sump pump
Power: 3200GPH at 10’ head for primary, 1730GPH at 10’ head for backup
Warranty: 2 years warranty
Build Quality and Design:-
Unlike the Wayne unit referred above, the Basement Watchdog BW4000 takes a radically new approach to product design. The backup sump pump has been placed midway along the housing of the primary pump, and the peripherals have also been placed on the same level. The discharges of the two units, on the other hand, have been merged and placed at the top of the housing of the primary pump. Together, these produce a somewhat novel but interesting design that does not create a huge sump footprint and can work efficiently by allowing the backup to complement the primary in case of heavy water load, etc.
The build quality, on the other hand, is conservative. Tough polycarbonate and polypropylene have been used to make the product’s exteriors and individual functional parts. These make the use of powder coating redundant and also provide a decent amount of protection against debris flux in the sump. Further, some sturdy steel holders have been placed at various critical points to ensure that there is never any issue with looseness.
Major External Parts (Discharge, Power Cord, External Battery):-
The Basement Watchdog BW4000 has a common discharge for both the backup and primary sump pumps, and this is connected to a PVC pipe using the metal brackets provided with the unit. Like all good units, this product’s discharge also offers the standard 1-1/4” NPT diameter, thus making it compatible with standard plumbing. One of the critical steps in installing a sump pump is to find a power source that is somewhat close to the location of the sump. The alternative to this is to find a long power cord, and Basement Watchdog takes no chances, providing users with a large power cord with water repellent properties.
More interestingly, the product uses a battery-backup sump pump system, and for this, any major sump pump battery can be employed. Batteries and battery fuel, however, are not included as part of the package. On the plus side, one does get a battery case that can accommodate a broad range of batteries easily.
Motor and Sealing:-
As one would expect, there are two sets of motors with the primary one being rated at 1/3HP. This translates to a healthy 3200GPH at 10’ head for the main pump. The secondary pump, in comparison, manages 1730GPH at the same head. While this may look weak compared to the primary pump, one has to remember that the function of this unit is to work only when there is an outage or when the level of water is so high that the primary pump cannot handle it on its own. The latter feature works automatically, thus ensuring that the sump pump never gets overwhelmed.
Another exciting innovation concerns the automatic diagnostic system of the unit, which allows users to know through a system of beeps and flashing lights when something is wrong with their unit. While the manufacturer does not reveal the exact procedure through which such diagnostics take place, users have commented that this unique feature often warned them of impending problems in advance by pointing out small problems. Lastly, both the motors come with hermetic sealing that allows the unit to survive the harsh flux of the sump without any damage occurring to the motors.
Check out Performance and Power of BW4000 pump:-
Switch and Impeller
The benefits of using a sump pump are directly proportional to the sensitivity of the switch. The Basement Watchdog BW4000 achieves this by providing a pair of highly sensitive reed switches that can detect minute changes in the water level without any difficulty. Further, these reed switches take up less space as compared to the float switches, and this translates into a compact unit. The polycarbonate impeller, on the other hand, is sturdy enough to handle heavy water flux. This is all the more important because the backup and the primary sump pumps have a common impeller, and when both work together, an enormous amount of water is removed, thus putting pressure on the impeller. Thankfully, the excellent design of the base prevents the influx of large debris into the blades of the impeller, thus allowing the impeller to work with water and small debris only.
The Basement Watchdog BW4000 comes with a two-year warranty on all parts and labor.
Dual pumps with polycarbonate design for durability and efficient functioning.
Standard discharge system to tackle heavy workloads.
Excellent pumping capacity of both primary and secondary pumps.
Automatic diagnostics forewarns against possible risks.
Reed switches ensure sensitivity, small footprint.
Sturdy impeller allows for maintenance of excellent water output.
No battery included with the product.
The product is somewhat heavy and is difficult to move in the absence of a handle.
It takes a lionhearted manufacturer to try out intensive innovations without establishing a firm reputation in the market. With the Basement Watchdog BW4000 though, the company not only helps customers avoid the debate over which type of sump pump to choose, but provides excellent value for money by offering a range of features along with unique ones like diagnostics. While a separate backup sump pump may, of course, be installed should one feel the need for it (courtesy the small footprint of the unit), this pump can act as a one-stop solution for a majority of home and commercial establishment owners facing medium to high water volumes.
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Simer 2925B Sump/Laundry Sink Pump Reviews https://t.co/lcsRffgqMM— Sump Pump Advisor (@bestsumppump) September 18, 2016
Those familiar with our how to install sump pump guide would know that a substantial part of the procedure involves creating and preparing the sump. Now while many homes come with ready-made sumps, the presence of sump liner, etc. often cannot be taken for granted. Enter the Simer 2925B Sump/Laundry Sink Pump, which comes with an external shell made of foam that makes such liner unnecessary. At the same time, the unit is capable of providing drainage and durability similar to the who’s who of the sump pump market. However, one may wonder whether the unit is really that durable, or whether the inclusion of an outer shell has led to some corner-cutting. A detailed review will address such concerns.
Product Dimensions: 13.8 x 13.8 x 12.4 inches
Product Weight: 18.2 pounds
Type: Submersible sump pump
NPT Motor: 1/3HP
Power: 1620GPH at 10’ head
Warranty: 1 year
At its core, the Simer 2925B Sump/Laundry Sink Pump comes with a standard thermoplastic housing and a somewhat elevated base that allows the impeller to avoid scraping against the base of the external shell. A standard plastic float is located to one side of the unit, such that the unit can be activated when 1/4th of the shell has been filled with water.
Coming to the external shell, we find that it has been made of a durable hard foam that keeps the water at bay while ensuring that fungal growth does not take place. The top of the shell can be completely open, or if used in certain other situations, closed and feature two sets of pipes, one bringing in the water to be removed and the other removing it. In either position, though, the core parts are well protected by the shell, while the shell design ensures less accumulation of debris, thus reducing the frequency of sump pump maintenance procedures.
While some people contend that the presence of a large amount of foam and plastic in the unit makes it vulnerable to damage from floating debris, one has to remember that sump linings are made of the same foam as the external shell, and the use of thermoplastic has become increasingly prevalent in the industry. Indeed, the durable thermoplastic allows the unit to withstand water temperatures of up to 130 degrees Fahrenheit.
Major External Parts (Discharge and Power Cord):-
The unit comes with a standard thermoplastic discharge with a width of 1-1/2” NPT, though pipes with a width of 1-1/4” are also acceptable courtesy of a unique design modification. Interestingly, because the base is elevated, the amount of pipe needed to move the water out of the sump is marginally lower than what normally would be necessary. Further, unless one wants to make specific modifications, one can use the pipe provided by the manufacturer, and then connect this pipe to the outer PVC pipes of the basement. Lastly, the excellent design, coupled with these features, allows the unit to remove solid spherical debris with diameters of 1/8th inch or less.
The power cord, on the other hand, is designed to handle constant water flux and is, therefore, durable and water-resistant. However, the fact that it curls around the top of the unit when it comes out of a dedicated opening in the cover of the external shell, (not to be confused with the sump pump cover, which sits at the mouth of the sump) shortens the effective length of the wire. However, since the cover will rarely be used in sump settings, this is not a criticism that extends to its core sump pump functions.
Motor and Sealing:-
The Simer 2925B Sump/Laundry Sink Pump comes with a 1/3HP motor similar to that used in market leaders like the Zoeller M53 Sump Pump. In the case of this offering by Simer, such power translates into an impressive 2880GPH at 0’ head and 1620GPH at 10’ head. With a shut off point of 18’, this unit is capable of draining the vast majority of basements.
Such efficiency, of course, can only be achieved when the motor is housed in a safe environment, and this is obtained by providing a hermetically sealed, oil-filled chamber for the motor to work in. Coupled with the enhanced security offered by the external shell, this allows the motor to stay insulated from even the worst debris flux.
Find out more Powerful Performance of Simer 2925B model here
Switch and Impeller:-
The Simer 2925B Sump/Laundry Sink Pump avoids carrying out any unnecessary innovations when it comes to the switch, offering a traditional float switch with a sturdy switch connector above it. The location of the switch, as mentioned above, allows it to activate the unit when water has filled about 1/4th of the shell, and this allows the motor plenty of time to remove the water.
The impeller has been afforded plenty of space courtesy of the heightened base, and this lets it use its sturdy thermoplastic blades to maximum effect. Further, since the pump is affixed to the base of the shell, there is never any risk of instability, and this helps improve the water removal power of the impeller manifold.
The Simer 2925B Sump/Laundry Sink Pump comes with a 1-year warranty on all parts and labor.
Sturdy outer shell and excellent thermoplastic design allow for a durable product.
Support for multiple PVC pipe diameters, default PVC pipe provided with the package.
Excellent motor capacity with remarkable shut-off point.
Double protection for the motor in the form of hermetic sealing and external shell.
Sturdy impeller and fixed nature of unit contribute to enhanced impeller efficacy.
Fixed size of the external shell may make the unit difficult to use in tiny sumps.
Lack of handle makes unit difficult to move.
While some bells and whistles are being added to sump pumps by manufacturers, the key features of the best sump pump no doubt include sufficient water removing capacity and a design that allows for large operation and external flux without suffering damage. The Simer 2925B Sump/Laundry Sink Pump excels in these departments, and also, provides a unique external shell design that provides added stability and protection. While this external shell also brings with it a few minor issues, the overall combination of an excellent pump and an equally durable shell make this unit ideal for a broad range of situations.
Liberty Pumps SJ10 Water Powered Back-Up Pump Reviews https://t.co/TRDbbssQKE— Sump Pump Advisor (@bestsumppump) September 18, 2016
Back-Up pumps are meant to work under extreme conditions where the primary pump fails or is unable to work due to cutting off of electricity, e.g., when a thunderstorm or hurricane strikes. It is, therefore, mandatory that you choose the very best back-up pump available. Now Liberty Pumps has one of the best reputations in the industry when it comes to such pumps, and the Liberty Pumps SJ10 Water Powered Back-Up Pump offers the perfect mix of useful features and specifications. However, given the vital importance of a back-up pump in the house, it is never safe to judge one simply by noting specifications on paper. Instead, it is necessary to understand just how each of these features fits in with the others to provide uninterrupted service when you need it most.
Product Dimensions: 14.5 x 5.1 x 21.6 inches
Product Weight: 5 pounds
Type: Water Powered Back-up
Pump Inlet: ¾ ‘’ NPT, Outlet: 1 ½ ‘’
NPT Motor: 19.8 gallons per minute (with the head height is 4 foot)
Warranty: 2 years
Design and Build Quality:-
As far as back-up sump pumps go, the Liberty Pumps SJ10 Water Powered Back-Up Pump is one of the most compact and light, which helps it fit in with even older, bulkier sump pumps that may take up a lot of space in the sump. Of course, this compact and light structure is ensured by using PVC plastic as the primary construction material. This is a significant difference with primary sump pumps such as the Zoeller M53 Sump Pump, which comes with a cast iron body. However, it should be borne in mind that the SJ10 is not a submersible pump in the sense of the motor being under water. As such, the PVC construction is good enough for the pump to work regularly and consistently without risk of water flowing into the internal components.
The design itself consists of the motor, with two openings– one on each end of the motor. Extending vertically downwards from the motor is a float which connects to the motor through a magnetic weep hole (explained below) and a suction shaft. Since the back-up pump assumes the existence of a larger primary pump, the two downward projections have been kept close to each other, while not being so close as to interfere with each other’s functioning.
Major External Parts (suction shaft, inlet, and outlet):-
The suction shaft has been made with heavy duty PVC so as to ensure that it does not bend or crack under heavy water pressure. There is a screen placed within the shaft that ensures that particulate matter does not enter the shaft and block it. Further, placed a little within the shaft is a check valve (also called suction shaft valve or foot valve) which makes sure that the water which is supposed to go up and out of the pump is not drawn down by gravity into the sump again. Though the quality of this valve is decent, the valve can sometimes malfunction, leading to reduced efficiency of the back-up pump. However, the tip of the suction shaft can be screwed off to remove the defunct valve and replace it with a quality alternative that is easily available on the market.
The inlet is the small opening (3/4” NPT) which usually does not come with an attached pipe. It is, however, compatible with pex, copper or CTS CPVC type pipes, so any of these recent models can be used as the inlet pipe. There is also a check valve at the inlet, which ensures that water does not flow into the pump when it is not needed. The pipe from the inlet should be connected to a source of water supply that is separate from the water that is to be drained. The supply can be any supply (though you would usually use the municipal water supply). More pertinently, the water supply must be active at all times, and as such, those who use wells, etc. cannot use the Liberty Pumps SJ10 Water Powered Back-Up Pump. The outlet comes with a 1-1/2” NPT connector that can be utilized with any standard PVC pipe to prepare a channel by which the water that is pumped out can be expelled from the basement. To make matters convenient, Liberty Pumps has made provision for this outlet to be the same as that of the primary pump, so one does not have to create two separate channels for the two pumps.
Motor and Sealing:-
The motor of the Liberty Pumps SJ10 Water Powered Back-Up Pump functions using the water pressure from the inlet. If installed properly, the SJ10 pump is capable of pumping 19.8 gallons per minute when the head height is 4 foot, which is one of the best as far as back-up pumps are concerned. Further, the pump can work with pressures ranging from 20PSI to 100PSI at the inlet, thus ensuring that the pump keeps working almost without regard to the fluctuations in inlet pressure. Last but perhaps most importantly, the motor can remove 2 gallons of water for every 1 gallon of water used.
As mentioned above, the motor does not become submerged and therefore does not need to be hermetically sealed. Indeed, the motor runs on the pressure of the water at the inlet. However, the circuitry of the motor is carefully segregated from the rest of the pump, so that even when pressure is very high, water does not reach areas of the pump that are not tolerant to water.
Switch and Float:-
As mentioned above, the Liberty Pumps SJ10 Water Powered Back-Up Pump comes with a PVC float that runs parallel to the suction shaft. Made of sturdy yet light PVC, the float is connected to a narrow shaft that in turn attaches to the motor through a magnetic hole. This hole is configured in such a way that as the float rises, it triggers the magnetic mechanism in the shaft. This mechanism triggers a magnetic switch that is located inside the motor.
As the switch is activated, the diaphragm blocking the inlet water is opened and water flows in, allowing the motor to generate power and draw water using the suction shaft into the outlet. Quite naturally, such an arrangement requires no electricity, and further, it works using the water pressure, so there is never any discordance between the level of water and the working of the pump.
Check out detailed features of Liberty Pumps SJ10 Water Powered Back-Up Pump
Warranty of this product:-
The Liberty Pumps SJ10 Water Powered Back-Up Pump has been provided with a manufacturer warranty of 2 years, which is perhaps the best available in the sump pump market.
Light and compact design
Tough yet light PVC construction
An efficient motor that can remove 19.8 gallons per minute, or 2 gallons per 1 gallon of water used.
Magnetic precision switch
Inlet and Outlet compatible with wide range of pipes
Excellent warranty with two years
Suction shaft valve (foot valve) prone to occasional malfunction
Cannot be used with water supplies that are prone to be shut off periodically (e.g., wells)
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Given the high standards that sump pumps need to meet, it is surprising how well the Liberty Pumps SJ10 Water Powered Back-Up Pump lives up to expectations. It is compact yet sturdy on one hand, while on the other it is capable of working with variable inlet pressure to deliver excellent water pumping efficiency. If the valves, the magnetic switch and the screen be considered alongside these, it can be said with certainty that the SJ10 is a great product that is capable of providing more than adequate service to households/commercial establishments that need a reliable but affordable back-up pump for emergency situations.
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It is a sad fact that most homeowners will wait until the middle of the rainy season or the occurrence of a major climatic event like Hurricane Sandy before they take the trouble of finding out whether their sump pumps are up to the task. This practice may make sense for household appliances that run every day or at least once a month, and hence, are tested during usage anyhow. Sump pumps, however, tend to remain inactive for months on end, and if during this time something goes wrong, even light rains can lead to a flooded basement. Learning how to test a sump pump and applying these skills, on the other hand, is a simple and highly risk-mitigating task. We’ve made it even easier by dividing the multiple testing methods into two – a quick test and another, thorough professional inspection process.
Before going into the more exact test procedure, it is important to know how to run a 2-minute test when the rains have already begun, and puddles are forming around the exterior of the basement.
To run this test:
Raise the sump cover a little and remove it if the discharge pipes do not hinder such removal. Disconnecting the pipes is neither necessary nor advisable since this might render the pump non-functional for some time and increase risks of flooding. Use a flashlight to quickly note if there are any bugs or worms in the sump. If there are, wear hand protection and apply some pest control measures.
Lower your hand till you find the float.
Raise the float a little and note whether the pump begins to run. The float should move freely, and you should be able to place at least two fingers between the float and the wall of the sump. Among the things you should remember when learning how to test a sump pump is never to push or pull the float too much as this might break it. If the float doesn’t move, it is probably jammed. If the float moves but the pump still does not start, either the switch arm is malfunctioning, or the motor is suffering from problems. Contact your plumbing contractor immediately.
For sump pumps that do not have a float:
After removing the sump cover, take note of the amount of water in the sump. If the water is low or non-existent, pour a 5ga bucket’s of water into the sump pit and see if the unit works.
Note : The second method can be used for sump pumps with floats as well but not only is it more cumbersome, but can also lead to flooding if it turns out that the pump is not working since the water will continue to sit in the sump until such time as it is either scooped out or the pump is replaced. For water-based backup units and any others that do not have a float, though, it is the only testing procedure.
The Thorough Testing Process:
Thorough testing should be carried out only on sunny days when no rain has been predicted for at least the next 48 hours. Protective clothing, including eyewear and gloves, must be used during such testing. For convenience, we’ve divided the procedure into two parts – pump testing and peripherals testing. Note that highly experienced professional inspectors will sometimes open the sump pump housing and check internal components. This however, requires knowledge of electrical circuitry, and if you do not have such knowledge, it is best not to try to open up the housing.
To proceed with testing:
Remove the sump cover and disconnect all power to the sump pit. Check for any insects or worms in the sump.
Disconnect the pipes and take out the sump pump. If your pipes do not have union connectors or other easily removable connectors, you may have to cut through the pipe to take out the pump. Once you have learned how to test a sump pump, you would need to replace the cut pipes with new PVC units and necessary connectors. This makes the procedure costly, but since it is a one-time task, the chances are that you would be thanking your foresight the next time you need to take out the pump.
Clean out any debris that may be sticking to the pump. You may clean out the dirt and fibers sticking out of the impeller, but this is a time-consuming process and not strictly necessary part of learning how to test a sump pump.
Leave the unit to dry out.
In most cases, the pump’s discharge should have a length of PVC pipe still connected to it, this being the part that connects the discharge to the check valve. Place the pump in a large bucket and put the power cord in a manner that the ends are not exposed to water.
Fill the bucket to the height of the pipe.
Connect the power cord to a powerpoint. The unit should start running immediately, pumping out water from the stub PVC pipe. While it is not possible to measure the rate of water removal (especially since the water would be falling back into the bucket), the intensity of the water’s flow should be a good indicator of the vitality of the pump.
Cut the power and remove the sump pump from the bucket.
Observe the float and switch assembly and gently raise the float a few times. There should be a soft click sound every time. If the operation is not smooth, move the float sideways a little before trying again. If the motion is still not smooth, you may need to carry out sump pump repair. Next, use a flashlight to observe the impeller carefully. Try to rotate the axle of the impeller gently and see if the movement is erratic or unbalanced. Any rusting, bending or damage to the blades must be corrected through replacement of the impeller by a qualified professional.
Lastly, take note of the bearings of the unit and the epoxy coating (if present). Any signs of wear and tear or rusting should also be a cause of concern.
Replace the sump pump in the sump and reconnect all connectors and PVC pipes.
Reconnect power and change the sump cover if you wish to check only the sump pump. If you want to carry out a complete check, though, you would need to test the various peripheral units as well. To do this, you need to check the following components:
GFCI: A GFCI is a circuit component that prevents electrical shocks. If your sump pumps have a GFCI installed, ensure that it is properly connected to the sump pump circuit and furthermore, that there are no signs of wear and tear.
Power Connectors: Sump pumps draw huge power during operation and hence, it is important that their insulation is in top shape. Check the outer insulation of the power cords to ensure there is no damage. Further, make sure the power cord and the adapter/plug are properly connected, as improperly connected units can make the basement prone to fire hazards.
Sump Pit (should be carried out before replacing the pump in the pit): Use a flashlight to note the relief of the base of the pump. Not all debris is removed by the impeller and the ones that remain collect at the bottom. You can use a shovel to remove this debris and make the base plain. Also, check the sides of the pump for any damage or rat holes.
As the above guide to learning how to test a sump pump would suggest, testing is not merely the task of checking if the pump itself is working properly. Indeed, inspectors are expected to test the sump, the external electrical components and sometimes, even the external drainage pipes involved. Here, we’ve simplified the procedures to allow novice users to run tests like professionals and keep their basements safe while saving the money that you would normally have spent on the plumbing inspector.
Click to check out our Sump Pump Reviews.